The Roots of Modern Grenadian Culture By Norma Sinclair
I order to understand modern Grenadian culture, it is necessary to delve into the past to see how it all began. The first known inhabitants of Grenada were a stone-age tribe known as the Ciboneys. The Arawaks then arrived from the South American mainland and gradually spread through all the islands of the Caribbean. They lived mainly on fish, fruit, and cassava (manioc), which they made into a type of pancake. An alcholic beverage also was brewed from the roots of this plant. Small cassava cakes are still made and sold in the supermarkets here and are very popular when buttered, rolled, and toasted. They are served often at local tea parties.
Tapioca also is made from the cassava root. The Arawaks wove special baskets out of reeds found growing on the riverbanks. A large, flat shape was constructed and used as a sifter of strainer when the cassava was being processed. Examples of these sifters still can be seen in the local museum, although they are no longer woven locally. The sifters, however, are still used on the South American mainland to this day.
The Arawaks were very artistic and it is believed that they created several of the rock carvings still visible in certain parts of the island.
Later, the Carib warriors arrived from the South American mainland, slaughtered most of the Arawaks and took over their settlements. They were named "Carib" by the Europeans who discovered them. Initially their diet consisted of seafood, shellfish, game, small birds and fruit, however, later they built more durable settlements and cultivated vegetables.
In 1650, the French were the first European settlers to remain on the island and import slaves from Africa. East Indians settled in 1857, followed by a few English settlers relocating from Barbados. These hardworking and thrifty people chose to settle in a hilly area known as Mt. Moritz just outside of the city of St. George's, keeping to themselves for many years, growing fruits and vegetables to feed their families and sell at market. During this century, many young people have emigrated to Australia and the remaining inhabitants now move more freely with the rest of the population. With this intermingling of races which was taking place more or less simultaneously all over the Caribbean, a new West Indian culture began to emerge.
On this island, which changed hands between the British and French a few times, a French patois was spoken for many years until the early 1930s. Now, the language has almost died out. We still have the French manner of gesticulating, and some expression used still have a French twist:
"It make hot, oui!"
"He took tombe" or just "He tombe."
"Well yes, oui!"
"Oui, papa!"
"He have maldjo." (mal-yeux, the evil eye)
Some African words and expressions have also crept into our vocabulary, e.g., "jook" (to stick), "picker go jook you" (thorn will stick you), and "picker" (Fr. Piquant)
The Way We Eat
Nowadays, many homes in Grenada cook with gas or electricity. Some use kerosene, but a number of poorer people still use a coal pot. Roast corn in season is very popular and along many streets I the towns the corn vendors can be seen with their coal pots and the corn roasting on a grid over the glowing coals.
Cooking on a coal pot necessitates a one-pot meal, hence the popularity of dishes like "oil down" - breadfruit cooked in coconut milk with salted meat of some kind and vegetables, perhaps callaloo, and lots of seasoning. Incidentally, the breadfruit came to these islands from Tahiti, and was brought here as a cheap source of food for the slave population. Captain Bligh on his ship the Bounty had a mutiny on his hand because he was trying to conserve water to keep his breadfruit saplings alive. The crew objected to this because their drinking water was rationed, hence the mutiny, made famous in stories and films. The breadfruit is a delicious and versatile vegetable. Over the years it has found its way to the tables of ever five-star restaurants and hotels.
Pepper Pot is another well-liked meal. Before the days of refrigeration it was a means of preserving meat. This was cooked with casareep; a preservative made from the cassava plant. Once heated every day, it could last for months, with bits of leftover meats being added to it from time to time. This is a delicious dish well worth tasting.
For tenderizing meat we wrap it in pawpaw or ‘papaya'.
Corn coo-coo is also a popular dish made with corn meal and coconut milk. It is similar to the Italian Polenta.
Early morning breakfast can consist of anything from a cup of cocoa-tea, the native cocoa ground and cooked, sweetened and served with or without milk, to a full breakfast of fruit, cereal, eggs, bacon, ham, toast and coffee or tea.
Our main meal of the day is lunch, which is served about noon. This can be a one-pot or a dish of meat or fish served with a starchy vegetable, of which we have many - rice, white potatoes, sweet potatoes (different from sweet potatoes), bluggoes, dasheen, breadfruit, as well as other green or yellow vegetables - corn, peas, callaloo, plantain, pumpkin, eggplant, christophene, to name a few.
A dessert of fruit, ice cream or a more exotic dish can also be served. In many homes, tea is still taken in the mid-afternoon and can be anything from a cup of tea and a cookie, to our well known tea parties with sandwiches, chicken puffs and all sorts of sweet and cakes and other goodies, including rolled cassavas. Supper is a light meal - probably just soup and a sandwich, or a cup of cocoa and biscuit. Grenadians tend to entertain more at home than at restaurants, nightclubs or hotels.
Our Way of Life
In dance we gyrate to all the modern dances popular in the Northern Hemisphere. Steel band and calypso are very much a part of these islands. The original calypso was telling a story, composed of some recent event of satire, or ridiculing a well-known personality. The tunes were catchy and the stories were funny. Everyone had a wonderful time singing and dancing. Now they are a bit more basic, but some of them are still quite good and the rhythm is quite pleasant and encouraging to the dancer.
There is also a thriving jazz club and thelancers (an old European form of dance) are kept alive by small groups of older folk who perform every now and then in public. In Carriacou, where the African population still knows to which African tribe they belong, the Big Drum dance is performed on special occasion. A form of this dance is now acted out as a tourist attraction.
Steel bands perform regularly in many of our hotels. "Pan" as it is popularly known, is taught in a lot of schools around the island. With the natural musical ability of our islanders it is easily learned.
Weddings and Funerals
Our brides usually dress in the traditional white gown and veil complete with bridesmaid and a bestman for the groom. For larger weddings there might be more than one bridesmaid with ushers, a ring bearer and flower girl. The bride's cake is normally two or three tiers, and elaborately decorated by one of our many competent cake decorators. The cake itself is what we call a ‘black cake.' The fruit mainly raisins and currants, is soaked in a mixture of wine and rum for some months before the cake is made. Browning is added to the cake mixture so that it is very dark. Many spices and essences are also included to make a delicious tasting cake.
Depending on the time of the day, different meals will be served. For a morning wedding, there will be a wedding breakfast. However, most wedding take place in the afternoon and cocktail snacks will be served before the speeches when champagne will be offered for the toasts. In poorer communities the weddings would not be so elaborate, but black cake will definitely be there, usually one for the bride and one for the groom. The toasts will be drunk with sparkling wine or a homemade version. Some of our hotels offer inclusive wedding packages including the licence and the preacher, so that the bride and groom have nothing at all to worry about.
At some weddings, the drivers blow their horns from the church to the reception so that everyone will know that a wedding party is driving past. There is an old law in Grenada that no wedding can take place after dark (six o'clock in the evening) so a wedding at night is out of the question.
Funerals are conducted either at a funeral home or at a church. The coffin is then taken to the cemetery and followed by the mourners who stand around and sing hymns while the grave is being filled and the priest makes a final blessing. Quite often the mourners are invited to return to the home of the bereaved for some drinks and snacks. Burials at sea do take place, but it is not a common practice. Cremation is also an available option. In the city of St. George's, it is the only time that cars can be seen driving the wrong way on a one-way street as the coffin is moved from church to cemetery.
On November 1st each year, known as "All Souls Day" on the Church calendat, it is the practice to honour our dearly departed by lighting candles on their graves. This can be quite an impressive sight with fresh flowers and lighted candles all over the cemeteries. People mill about, some singing hymns and enjoying each other's company. The children buy packets of "asham" to eat. This is finely ground roasted corn, mixed with sugar. It is difficult to speak with a mouthful of asham, as it will fly all overt the place - great fun for the kids.
Our Superstitions and Beliefs
Ligaru (lou garou or werewolf) is a European belief. /this person is known to shed and hide his skin and turn into a ball of fire. It can also change into other forms to pursue its prey, sucking the blood of its sleeping victim. Sometimes it can be heard passing by on a dark night with a rattling of chains. If his skin is found while he is away from it, salt can be sprinkled on it and that would cause an infernal itching when he puts it back on. The female counterpart of this is called a Soukouyan. Ladjables (la diablesse, she devil) is always hidden by a large-brimmed hat, as her face is just a skull. One of her feet is a cloven hoof. She is said to lure her prey to the edge of a precipice. When she lifts her hat, they either go insane or commit suicide.
Obeah is till practiced here. This is a form of African witchcraft. It is said that one can gain riches or thwart one's enemies by practising this type of sorcery.
Many people have a real name by which they have been baptized, and a ‘home' name by which they are usually known. This is so that the spirits would not find out tier real names and therefore will be unable to harm them. This sometimes causes difficulties with passport and bank accounts.
Shango is an African God of thunder and thunderbolts, who punished troublemakers and reward his worshippers. The practise involves group-drum beating and animal sacrifice. Special foods and the colour red are prominent features of worship at his shrine. Shango worship still takes place here, particularly at the lake Grand Etang, a crater lake in the hills of Grenada. "Mama Glo" is also worshipped there. She is said to be a Goddess of the river.
Saraka is another African custom for honouring the dead and appeasing evil spirits. It usually takes the form of a feast with lots of singing and dancing over several days.
In the Field of the Art
There are two outstanding local playwrights who regularly produce plays dealing with local topics, but written in such a way that strangers can usually follow the plot. These are normally performed at Marryshow House, which is the Centre for Continuing Studies of the University of the West Indies. They are staged in certain outer parishes as well. Before the days of electricity, radio and TV, families would gather together in the evenings and tell folk tales to their children. We try to keep this practice alive. Out storytellers are really very good. Quite often a local or West Indian folk tale can be heard overt our radio station. Local authors are now writing down our "Nancy Stories" many of which have been published.
Our artists and sculptors exhibit their work annually at a special art festival held in the early part of the year. Some of these artists have been able to go away for training; others have had to content themselves with local instruction and their own creativity. Yet others have tried entirely on their own and made a pretty good job of it. Samples of their work can be found in art galleries in the city.
We have a number of choirs and dance groups that perform regularly. There seems to be an inborn sense of rhythm in every West Indian and this is reflected in our musical performances.
Our most popular games are cricket, football, tennis, golf and basketball. A triathlon takes place annually with swimming, running, and cycling as the feats performed. The Hash House Harriers go hiking at least once a month in set trails in different parts of the island. Sports, fishing, sailing, scuba diving and snorkeling are more popular with our guests than with the local Grenadians. However, we do enjoy our many beaches, and hope that our visitors will too.
This should give visitors to Grenada some insights into our history and how it shaped our current culture
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